How to Buy a Used Car From a Private Seller

To buy a used car from a private seller, check the title against the seller's ID, look for liens, have the car inspected, pay in a traceable way and sign the title over together.

How a Private Sale Is Different

Buying from a person instead of a dealer can save you money. There are no dealer fees, no add ons and no sales pitch. The tradeoff is that you get fewer protections and do more of the work yourself.

The Federal Trade Commission's Used Car Rule, which makes dealers post a Buyers Guide on each car, does not apply to private sellers. Most private sales are as is, so once you pay, problems are generally yours. Our guide to as is used car sales explains what that means. In short, everything you want to know about the car, you need to learn before you hand over money.

Before You Go See the Car

Call the seller first. A few questions on the phone can save you a trip.

• Is the title in your name, and do you have it in hand?
• Do you still owe money on the car?
• Why are you selling it?
• Has it been in an accident or had major repairs?
• Do you have service records?
• Can I have the VIN?

Run the VIN before you go. A vehicle history report shows title brands, reported accidents and odometer readings. The federal National Motor Vehicle Title Information System lists approved sites that check for salvage, flood and junk brands. You can also check the VIN for open recalls for free at NHTSA.

Check the Title and the Seller

This is the step that protects you most. When you meet, ask to see the title and the seller's photo ID.

• The name on the title should match the ID. If it does not, ask why. Someone selling a car they do not own is a common setup for trouble.
• The VIN on the title should match the VIN on the dash and the driver's door jamb.
• Look for a brand on the title, such as salvage, rebuilt or flood. Our post on salvage titled cars explains what each means.
• Look for a lienholder. If a bank is listed, the seller still owes money, and the bank has to release the title.

If there is a loan, the safest way is to finish the deal at the seller's lender. You pay the lender, the lender releases the lien, and you leave with a clean title or a written plan for it.

Look It Over, Then Get It Inspected

Meet in daylight, in a public place, and bring a friend if you can. Ask the seller not to start the car before you arrive, so you can hear a cold start. Walk around it using our guide on how to inspect a used car, then take a real drive with our test drive guide.

After that, have a mechanic check it before you agree to buy. A private sale is where an inspection matters most, because there is no dealer to go back to. An honest seller will usually agree. If a seller will not allow one, take that as a reason to slow down.

If you cannot get to the car yourself, a remote purchase inspection sends an inspector to it for you.

Agree on the Price

Use what you learned. Compare the car with similar listings, and bring any problems the inspection found. A worn set of tires or a leak has a real repair cost, and that is a fair reason to ask for less. Our guide on how to negotiate a used car price covers the steps. Once you agree, write the price down.

Pay the Safe Way

How you pay matters as much as what you pay. Cash in a parking lot leaves you with no record, and a stranger knowing you are carrying it.

• The safest way is to finish the deal inside a bank. The teller can confirm the funds and the seller can deposit them on the spot.
• A cashier's check works well if you get it from your bank and hand it over at the same time as the signed title.
• Never pay with gift cards, a wire to someone you have not met, or a payment app to a stranger.
• Never pay a deposit for a car you have not seen in person.

Hand over the money and get the signed title at the same moment. Do not pay now and wait for a title in the mail.

Sign the Paperwork Right

The paperwork is short, but every piece counts.

• The title, signed over by the seller in the right spots. Do not accept a title signed by someone who is not there.
• The mileage. Federal law requires the seller to write the odometer reading at the transfer, usually on the title, for most vehicles.
• A bill of sale with the date, price, VIN and both names. Some states require one. Get one either way.
• A lien release, if the car had a loan.

After that, title and register the car in your name. Plates, sales tax, emissions checks and deadlines are set by each state, so check your state's motor vehicle agency before you buy. Set up insurance before you drive away.

Have It Checked Before You Pay

We go to private sellers as often as dealers. Our used car inspection covers 122 points, a full OBD-II scan with readiness monitors, a road test, and tire and brake measurements, with photos of anything we find. We go to the car, you do not need to be there, and the report comes the same day. See what it costs on our cost page.

Common Questions

Get the Car Inspected